Included in the kit:

  • Case: 1x bottom layer, 2x USB open layers, 1x USB closed layer, 1x switch plate, 2x top surround layers.
  • Hardware: 9x M2 x 5mm hex screws, 9x M2 x 9mm standoffs, 8x M2 x 12mm hex screws, and 4x Rubber feet.

Additional parts required:

  • PCB mounted stabilizers.
  • MX style switches.
  • MX compatible keycaps.

Tools required:

  • Screwdriver with metric hex bits or Allen keys.


  • Acrylic layers may come with protective paper or plastic that will need to be removed before starting.
  • Switch plate supports ANSI and Tsangan layouts (This includes HHKB, WKL, Split Right Shift and Split Backspace).

First step is to test the PCB you will be using. Check that all LEDs light up (Lighting effects on your PCB may vary from the picture).

Test each key to confirm that they are sending inputs. This can be done at or The Menu key is sometimes used for layer switching and may not register an input.

Install the PCB mount stabilizers on your PCB.

Take the switch plate and install switches in the modifier spots shown to provide support. Then press the switches into the PCB. Make sure to do this with the PCB resting on a flat surface to prevent any damage to the sockets.

To continue you can use the included switch fork to provide support for your plate by using it as a spacer in between the PCB and Switch plate.

Installing the switches is easiest if you start from the bottom row and work your way up.

If you do not have a switch fork you can use one of the top layers as a spacer to help support the plate.

You want to make sure that your switches are sitting flush and snapped into the plate as shown, and fully inserted into the PCB.

Finish installing all the switches. If you are not using a hotswap board, this is the time to solder your switches. It is also recommended to do another test to make sure all the switches are installed properly.

To start assembling your case attach all 9 standoffs to the 1.5mm bottom layer using the shorter 5mm screws. Make sure to not overtighten to prevent cracking the acrylic.

Next place the 2 middle layers with the USB cutouts on top of the bottom layer by having the standoffs go through the openings. To prevent cracking the acrylic only do one layer at a time and push down the layers evenly.

Now place the closed middle layer on top of the USB cutout layers

Take the PCB and switch assembly and place it on top of your middle layers by sliding the USB port section under the layer at an angle. Slide the switch assembly forward until it is lined up. The middle acrylic layer will sit between the USB port and the switch plate.

Next place the 2 top layers on top of the switch plate.

Making sure not to overtighten, screw in the remaining 8x 12mm screws through the top layers and into the standoffs below.

Your case is now fully assembled.

Finish it off by placing the 4 rubber feet on the bottom layer.

Add some keycaps and you're all finished!

Enjoy your new 60% keyboard!

If you are using a 1upkeyboards Pi60 PCB you can go to using a Chrome-based browser in order to see/modify your key layout and lighting effects.

Product Page: Coming Soon!

  • assembly_guides/keyboard_kits/60_acrylic_case.txt
  • Last modified: 2023/01/12 03:02
  • by 1upkeyboards